El rojo como color fetiche
Si no eres no rojo, no te preocupes, en este entorno festivo, la explosión cromática está permitida y dan como resultado combinaciones de tonalidades muy alegres y atrevidas. "El color en la feria es muy importante, al final es una fiesta para la alegría y a través de los estampados o los looks de dos piezas podemos jugar con él. No obstante, durante la noche el negro suele tener mucha presencia por su elegancia", señala Carmen Fitz. Y Ana Morón apunta: "en sintonía con las tendencias que hemos visto en las colecciones de las grandes firmas internacionales, tanto en ready-to-wear como en alta costura, colores como el celeste, el malva, el verde menta, el rosa en todos sus matices y el amarillo".
Ana Morón detalla que es habitual que quienes no quieren ir vestidas de flamenca a la feria, recurran a los diseños de su segunda firma, Anna Moon, en los que la prenda estrella es el pantalón. "El pantalón es una idea muy socorrida porque además de estilizar visualmente y permitir jugar con piezas superiores muy interesantes, es cómodo. No olvidemos que a la feria se va a disfrutar y no a estar limitados".
Como alternativa al vestido, el pantalón gana protagonismo año tras año. Entre otros motivos, porque no resultan tan largos como los vestidos. Recordar que el suelo del Real de la Feria es de albero, lo que se traduce en que todo aquello que lo toca acaba de color amarillo, por ello, las diseñadoras aconsejan que, salvo que se vaya a llevar un traje de flamenca, se apueste por un diseño de corte midi o al tobillo, de tal forma que los tacones puedan alejar el bajo, en parte, del suelo, para evitar el temido efecto desgastado y sucio que puede llegar desde el primer momento que se accede al recinto.
The lack of mental health support
The traumatic experience of those crossing the Darién is also causing high numbers of mental health consultations. According to a recent Action Against Hunger report, women bear the brunt, and are often carrying children with no support. While survivors of sexual violence may suffer from depression, suicidal thoughts, and sleep disorders, others feel the emotional burdens and stress of caring for the family in such extreme conditions.
Reported from Santiago, Chile by Daniela Mohor, with data visualisation from Zurich, Switzerland by Sofía Kuan.
The exponential rise in Darién Gap crossings
A number of factors caused the dramatic 2023 uptick in Darién Gap crossings. Changes in migration policies across the region have made it more difficult for those trying to reach the United States from South America to cross borders legally. Several countries imposed visa restrictions on Venezuelans and Haitians, even as countries such as Chile and Peru militarised their borders, pushing migrants to leave northward. In 2023, US President Joe Biden’s administration ended Title 42 – a pandemic-era border restriction – which motivated more people to head to the United States even though Biden soon adopted measures making it extremely difficult for them to seek asylum, and ramped up deportations. The lack of adequate integration policies has also been a driver. Among Haitians and Venezuelans in the Darién, many are migrating for the second time, from countries such as Brazil and Chile where they faced xenophobia, obstacles to regularise their status, and poor job opportunities. In April, Panamá, Colombia and the United States agreed on a tripartite plan to open up new regular migration routes to stem the flow, but so far no progress has been made.
From 2019 to 2022, most migrants crossing the Darién were Haitian and Cuban, but in the past two years Venezuelans have taken the lead, and the number of Ecuadorians seeking to escape from violence and poverty has also significantly increased. However, far from all the migrants crossing the Darién are Latin American, and the growing presence of migrants from other continents is garnering the attention of humanitarians, who must now cater their responses to those who don’t speak Spanish and are foreigners to the region. Chinese, Afghans, Indians, and nationals of different African countries have to confront language and cultural barriers, as well as the other dangers.